“Let’s go to Alaska” said Andy. “OK, great idea.” Andy would be 93 just before the trip and I also had a significant birthday. I would be officially old!
Planning began the day the first section came out for sale. Well three dates. First the Transpacific. Then Alaska b2b, then had to wait for the Hawaii leg. It came out weeks later… but yay.. got the same rooms, so it was then the long wait. For Andy we managed to get an accessible room, right near the hump of the ship for all four legs of the trip. I am down on deck 4, with a window. Both in great locations.
They say timing is everything.. and they were correct. I came back from the Global Odyssey trip from Singapore to Barcelona on Mariner. I had been back a few weeks, and was 10 weeks and 4 days from this trip – – and tangled my leg in a stool at a restaurant, fell and broke my leg. A long-ways, unstable, fracture of the fibular.
Four days in hospital then a surgery to pin and plate the bone and bolt the tendon back on.
The next six weeks were totally non weight bearing – in a wheel chair. Then the four weeks to get from a wheelchair to walking well enough for the trip. Physio twice a week.
I was confident – Andy not so much!
But all was good, and on Tuesday 21st August 2018, two walking sticks in hand, we headed off.
Taxi pick up at 4.30 am, a flight to Sydney, then a flight to Vancouver with Air Canada. Luggage could not be through checked as we had different airline groups – sad. But Qantas were great in Sydney, and had two guys with wheelchairs, who whisked us to luggage claim, and a third to take the luggage. Unchecked luggage meant we couldn’t go on the transfer bus; inside the airport security and across the runway. Instead we had a taxi and the traffic was horrid. Took over 30 minutes, but we got there. I wrestled the luggage trolley to check in and YAY the hard part of the trip was over.
Air Canada were great and organised more wheelchairs. And let me tell you… going through immigration and security in wheelchairs is awesome! Past the long lines of people and away we went. We were parked in the lounge and had some bubbles, then our wheelchair ladies came back and took us to the plane.
The flight was lovely. Fantastic cabin staff and food. The business class flat beds were not the best I have been in …. but …. let’s not complain. We could have been at the back of the plane with our knees up around our ears. And the cabin staff were amazing!
Many movies and a few periods of light sleep/dosing we arrived in Vancouver.
Andy travels like a boss now – able to watch movies, listen to music and move his seat up and down.
And time travel is lovely. Left Canberra at 6.30 am. Arrived in Vancouver at 7.30am. So a one hour flight?
We were then put into a golf cart and raced through the huge Vancouver airport. Right through to baggage claim where we got a porter and off into a taxi. Brilliant. The rest of the trip is going to be so easy now! 22 hours door to door.
Our hotel: L’Hermitage in Vancouver. We stayed here last time and it was great.
This time we were returning guests and the staff were amazing.
Of course we were hours too early to get our room at the hotel, but they gave us vouchers to go to the restaurant for coffee and comfy chairs. We managed to get an 11am booking at a nearby Thai Massage place. And it was good! Really good. So good we have booked again for turn around day when we are back in Vancouver!
The doorman was having trouble getting taxi to go to the massage, so the manager came out and organised one of the front staff to run us down in the hotel car. Very movie like.
Then back for a well earned sleep.
For dinner we went to a water front place called Cardero’s and wow. Built in the mariner; over the water, among the not so cheap boats. Beautiful. And the food….
We started with a drink in the bar – very nautical. Boats and memorabilia all around. The place as booked out but our concierge was able to get us in and to the top of the ‘walk up wait list”. We were given an image of a nautical flag. Our flag was “YES”. When our table was ready a bell rang and our flag was run up the mast. Sadly they found us a table quickly, as it was the loveliest bar, with amazing views and great local drinks.
The cold seafood platter – a dozen oysters, clams, muscles, prawns, crab claws, and the best ever salmon and tuna. And a sunset.
Our table was in prime position and the food was amazing. The whole dinner was amazing. So much glorious food – not just the platter. Wine and cocktails and $190.
As we flew in we thought it was a morning fog. But sadly Vancouver was covered in in Wildfire smoke. Many fires burning out in British Columbia. Seems much of the world in burning at the moment.
Taxis here are great. Airport to hotel was $55 – and a long trip. The restaurant to the hotel was $8.90. Massage to hotel was $6. Why would you drive!
So once again my Day 1 in Vancouver was magical!
Day 2
Wednesday 22nd August
After a sleep in I headed off on the Hop On Hop Off Bus.
Pick up was at the State Librabry, on the other side of our block. A great curved building. And off I went around Vancouver. Through Chinatown and onto the Gas Light district – Old Town. Great cobbled streets and the baskets of plants dripping in colour. The lights were all of the old style. It as the food district and lovely. Also home to the famous – or should I say – infamous Vancouver Steam Clock. According to the bus driver it is the most photographed thing in Canada!
According to the World Travel Awards, it is “pointless” and has been voted the World’s Worst Tourist Attraction for a Record 10th Year.
That in itself was enough reason to see it.
Then past Canada Place, where the ships come in, the Olympic Cauldron, lots of lovely buildings including the headquarters of the artist who made the amazing glass flowers at the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas, and onto Stanley Park.
Stanley Park. A glorious place. Over 400 hectares of old growth rainforest. Some of the oldest trees in North America. It’s Vancouver’s playground and home to amazing animals including squirrels, beaver, racoons, skunks, and even Coyotes.
The area was home to Burrard, Musqueam and Squamish First Nations people. In 1986 the land was declared a government reserve and in 1888 Stanley Park was opened and evolved as a place of recreation, rather than following a grand plan.
Deadman’s Island, at the edge of the Yacht club, was an important site to First Nations People, the became a quarantine station for smallpox. Now it is a naval base.
In 1894 the Nine O’clock gun was installed. Ship clocks were set by it. It is still fired at 9pm each day!
In 1913, public cars were allowed in for Sunday drives.
In 1917 they commenced the sea wall. Its 8.8ks long and I walked at least 100 metres of it! (I have cycled around it before though).
In 1924 the first of the Message Poles (then known as Totem Poles) was erected.
2006 a massive cyclone ripped down 10,000 old growth trees.
The park now has everything – Royal Yacht Club, sports ground, swimming beaches, aquarium, Tea House, views to the city, ocean and mountains, and the most amazing trees. It’s used in heaps of movies and TV shows – today ‘Supernatural’ was filming. The place is Spectacular.
I went for a wander down a track through some of the trees. Stunning and silent!
1937 was the opening of the Lions Gate Bridge. Built by the Guinness family (yep the beer ones) and later sold to the governemt, it was a major works program through the Great Depression – although it was bylaw stating “no Asiatic person shall be employed in or upon any part of the undertaking or other works.” What! Apart from that, the Lions Gate bridge is one of the worlds truly spectacular bridges.
They were filming in the Park on this day.
I
n 1970 the “Girl in the wetsuit” was unveiled. A statue of a … girl in a wetsuit, based on the Copenhagen “Little Mermaid statue”. She sits on a rock about 10 metre from shore. She is regularly dressed up by members of the public – sports jumpers, Halloween costumes etc.
It was then through the city, past the very wealthy west side and onto Granville Island and the markets.
There was a guy playing Pan Flutes. I’m sure it was the same guy from when Sarah and I were here in 2010!
So much amazing food. The fruit and berries were amazing as was the salmon – fresh, smoked, jerky, candied and more. All the produce was sensational.
Then a visit to Granville Markets. Amazing. The guy playing Pan Flutes was there 9 years ago when I was here.
And the market were as good as I remembered.
Exhausted I made it back to the hotel. A quick sit down, then out to dinner with Michelle and Chip from the Mariner trip. This time to Lift Bar and Grill. The place was booked out until late, but Pablo the concierge at the hotel was able to weave his magic and get us a table at the time we wanted – on the top deck, next to the water.
We sat there watching otter play, a seal popped its head up and boats. Huge boats, small boats, skulls.
As we were getting ready to order the waiter brought us a plate of amuse-bouche.
A starter to show off the chef’s skills. Sent to us by the hotel! Wow! That is pretty flash – I haven’t had that before! Thanks L’Hermitage!
The food was amazing. And I discovered a new sensation.
Mango and cilantro infused vodka (they make it themselves, infusing it for a week) with pimms, pineapple and lime juice and a sugar syrup. Fluffy on top and delicious.
We watched otters, birds and the huge red sun sink into the smoke. Wonderful night.
Then we heard the 9 o’clock cannon. Very cool.
Another great day in Vancouver!
Thursday 22nd August
Breakfast at this hotel is amazing. Fresh orange juice, good hot chocolate. Fantastic muesli made with fruit and nuts and great yogurt.
The hot food was all organic, local produce – eggs, salmon, sausage, bacon. Waffles, bagels, buns and so many pastries. Fruits berries and on and on.
I then headed off to the shops to get a few things. You know the socks they give you on the plane…. A homeless guy had a sign saying he needed shoes and socks! Glad I saved them for that purpose.
We then were picked up by Alison and Frank, that we met on the round Australia trip 2 years ago. They live in Tsawwassen, a village/outer suburb of Vancouver. It was about an hour drive out of the city and through great farming land.
Tsawwassen is on a peninsular. The bottom part is cut off by the 49th parallel (the Canadian US border) leaving a tiny area of land owned by the USA at the bottom of their street. About four square kms. With a border crossing and all. How insane. Guess you need a passport if you live there and want to go shopping. Mind you, you can walk along the beach rather than go through the crossing.
They also have trouble with fishing licences. If you drift over the line you get booked for not having a US fishing licence.
Why didn’t they bend the line like they did around the islands? Apparently it’s strategic.
But what a great afternoon we had. Their house sits on a gentle slope over the ocean; looking out at the ferry terminal and Vancouver Island. The house was renovated by the TV show “Love it or List it” where one of them wants to sell and one wants to stay. They have lived there for 27 years, and the place is gobsmackingly beautiful, so I don’t think it was a hard choice when you see what they did. Like a house from the movies. Amazing.
We sat for hours chatting and looking out to sea. The smoke kept lifting and coming back down. Then ate an amazing salmon, caught that morning and great produce grown in the surrounding farmland – a corn only grown in this area “cookies and cream corn” and so sweet and juicy. Local champagne and beer. Awesome.
Yet another wonderful day in the magical city of Vancouver. I’ve now had 12 days here (over a few visits) and have loved every minute. And every mouthful of food has been delicious! What a magical place. And Tomorrow – Radiance of the Seas.
Click below to go to the next part.